Fukuoka, A Family's Journey Through Heritage and Healing
A Family's Journey Through Heritage and Healing
Our family visits Fukuoka once a year, just like we do with Kyoto and Osaka. This city holds special significance for us, as it is where my wife was born and where my mother-in-law’s hometown is located. Additionally, Fukuoka is the site of her ancestral home, which still contains the graves of her ancestors underneath a temple—a very rare feature. We also have a mentor who is now over 90 years old. He practices Chiropractic and possesses extensive knowledge in many areas. Fukuoka is a place where our family finds healing, both physically and mentally.
Fukuoka, located on the northern shore of Kyushu Island in Japan, is the capital of Fukuoka Prefecture. Known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and modern amenities, it offers a unique blend of traditional and contemporary experiences. Fukuoka has been a significant port city since ancient times, serving as a gateway for trade between Japan and the Asian continent. The city played a pivotal role during the Edo period as a center for commerce and cultural exchange.
Gateway to Culture and Convenience
My story begins at the airport. Traveling to Fukuoka from Tokyo can be quite a journey; while the Shinkansen (bullet train) may take longer compared to a flight, it offers a unique experience.
Fukuoka Airport is conveniently located just a short distance from the city center, making it easily accessible for travelers. It serves both domestic and international flights, connecting Fukuoka to major cities around the world. The airport is known for its modern facilities, friendly staff, and efficient services.
Upon arrival, visitors can enjoy a range of amenities, including shops, restaurants, and information centers. The seamless transportation options, such as buses and taxis, make it easy to reach various destinations in and around Fukuoka. In Japan, you can find local souvenir shops in major stations and airports, offering a variety of ingredients, sweets, and other items. It’s a cultural tradition to bring small gifts for yourself, friends, and coworkers, making these shops a convenient stop during your travels. Even if you miss the chance to explore local items due to your schedule or simply want to discover something else, these shops provide a great option for picking up unique local products. Overall, Fukuoka Airport serves as a welcoming gateway to a city rich in culture and history.
A Culinary Journey Through Tradition and Modernity
Every year when we visit, we stay in different locations and enjoy various types of hotels. Downtown is a very convenient area for first-time visitors, as it connects to many attractions, local restaurants, and festivals via public transportation. Compared to Tokyo and other major cities in Japan, it tends to be less crowded, making for a more enjoyable experience.
The first time our family visited Fukuoka was an unforgettable experience, although my wife had been many times before since she was born there. We stayed near the Naka River, which runs through the city. At night, the riverside was alive with yatai, traditional Japanese food stalls, where we enjoyed various street foods. The following day, we tried the famous Hakata ramen for lunch, a type of ramen known for its rich, pork-based broth. The restaurant we visited has since expanded, now with many franchise locations. In the evening, we explored an izakaya, one of the casual drinking spots, and later a ramen shop that now has a branch in New York. Fukuoka offers a mix of traditional and modern cuisine, from yatai stalls to trendy French and Italian restaurants. We stopped by one of the popular spots for a late-night snack, enjoying the vibrant food scene.
A Family Journey Through Fukuoka’s Outdoor Delights
On our next trip, we stayed at Canal City, and it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable vacations we’ve had. The hotel we chose was located right inside the complex, which made it incredibly convenient to explore the area at our leisure. Canal City itself boasts over 250 shops, offering a wide range of options from fashion and electronics to beauty products. My daughter had a great time visiting the Disney store, where she picked up some souvenirs. Although one of the highlights of the complex is the famous Ramen Stadium, where visitors can sample ramen from all over Japan, we decided to try a highly recommended restaurant specializing in expertly prepared chicken dishes. The experience was unforgettable, as we continued to explore Japan's rich culinary offerings.
My family also thoroughly enjoyed the arcade which provided endless entertainment. In the evenings, we were captivated by the spectacular water fountain shows held in the canal, where the combination of lights and music created a magical atmosphere that added a special touch to our stay.
Staying at Canal City made it so easy to enjoy Fukuoka, as everything was right at our fingertips. The lively atmosphere, the range of dining and entertainment options, and the convenience of having so much to do in one place made it more than just a hotel stay—it was a full entertainment experience.
One night, we visited Kaganoya, an innovative Japanese restaurant that uses traditional ingredients. They offer a variety of broths, soups, and premade ingredients. Kaganoya now has many branches in major cities and has become very popular. This particular location was their original restaurant, and at that time, they didn’t have any branches yet. The dishes were amazingly innovative, and the portions were generous, all in a cozy atmosphere.
A Family's Journey Through Heritage and Natural Wonder
The following day, we went to a forest adventure park, which is not only located in Fukuoka but also near Tokyo and other areas. The park features exciting rope courses and zip lines set among the trees, perfect for thrill-seekers. My daughter loves outdoor activities, unlike myself. I struggled to keep up with my daughter and wife as we navigated the ropes and various obstacles.
The next day, we ventured to the pottery area near Fukuoka, a region renowned for its rich ceramic heritage. This area is particularly famous for its traditional stepped kilns, known as “noborigama.” These unique kilns, which ascend in steps, were historically used for firing pottery and are a testament to the area’s artisanal craftsmanship. As we explored, we were captivated by the intricate designs and techniques passed down through generations, offering a glimpse into the time-honored practices of local potters.
During our visit to Saga Prefecture, we explored several famous pottery shops, each offering a breathtaking display of ceramics, from intricately crafted plates and bowls to teapots and decorative items. The unique pieces showcased in these shops were made from locally sourced clay, with glazes and patterns that beautifully reflect the natural surroundings. Many artisans were present, demonstrating their craft and sharing stories about their pottery-making techniques, which deepened our appreciation for the skill and artistry involved in every piece.
One of the most memorable stops was Hataman, a renowned pottery maker specializing in Nabeshima Yaki (鍋島焼), a celebrated style of Japanese porcelain known for its exquisite craftsmanship and refined design. Nabeshima Yaki dates back to the late 17th century during the Edo period, when it was produced exclusively for the ruling Tokugawa shogunate and other feudal lords. This porcelain, originating in the Nabeshima domain of Saga Prefecture, was never intended for commercial sale, which elevated its status as a symbol of prestige and high social standing. The designs on Nabeshima Yaki are renowned for their elegance and precision, often featuring delicate motifs of flowers, animals, and nature, with soft, pastel hues and signature cobalt blue accents.
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Hataman continues to preserve the centuries-old tradition of Nabeshima Yaki, blending historical techniques with contemporary creativity. The pottery produced here is characterized by intricate designs and fine brushwork, staying true to the classic motifs while also embracing modern interpretations. What sets Hataman apart is its commitment to keeping the craft alive through interactive workshops, allowing visitors to engage directly with the porcelain-making process.
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During our visit to Hataman, the owner generously invited my daughter to create her own piece. She painted a dish, drawing her design with Gosu, a traditional cobalt oxide pigment used in Nabeshima Yaki, and after it was baked, the piece was delivered to our home in Tokyo. The owner praised her creativity, and her design, featuring the traditional navy blue of Nabeshima Yaki, turned out to be a beautiful reflection of this timeless art form. This personal experience gave us a deeper appreciation for the enduring legacy of Nabeshima Yaki, and how modern artisans like those at Hataman are keeping its heritage alive for future generations.
A Journey Through Samurai Legacy and Culinary Traditions
The following year, we visited Yanagawa, as we have a personal connection to the area. My mother-in-law’s ancestors hailed from Yanagawa and were linked to a prominent samurai lord. Her elder brother once carried their ancestral swords, which were later donated to a museum. Uniquely, this ancestor is buried beneath a temple—a practice that is quite rare—and we’ve visited this sacred site twice.
Yanagawa is also renowned for its unagi (eel), and the layout of the area is said to have been influenced by my mother-in-law’s Samurai lord ancestor, who was responsible for the region's master planning. Just as politicians today shape urban development, the Samurai lords of the past played significant roles in designing the landscape and infrastructure of the area. This historical connection adds depth to our visits, linking our family heritage to the rich tapestry of Yanagawa’s cultural history. Each visit to Yanagawa allows us to savor the delicious unagi dishes, which highlight the region's culinary delights and serve as a reminder of our family's enduring ties to the land.
Family, Reflection, and Fukuoka’s Local Delights
Photo by theerab
Every trip to Fukuoka includes a visit to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, a significant place for us. Before heading to the shrine, we always stop by our mentor's home for advice on health and life. Then, we go to the temple to pay our respects to our ancestors. We bring rice cakes and tea as offerings, placing them in front of their name plaques. This temple, where our recent ancestors’ ashes are kept, features a stunning garden of sakura (cherry blossoms) that bloom beautifully in spring.
Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine holds special meaning for our family and has become a regular part of our visits to Fukuoka. The area surrounding the shrine is filled with wonderful shops and restaurants. Some of our favorites include cozy cafes and food shops, where we enjoy local delicacies like mentaiko baguettes. Each visit to Dazaifu Tenmangu feels like a blend of peaceful reflection and joyful indulgence in the local food scene.
In Fukuoka, the spirit of Sugawara no Michizane, the revered scholar and deity of learning, lives on at Dazaifu Tenmangu. Legend has it that during his unjust exile from Kyoto, Michizane longed for the plum trees that adorned the Imperial Palace, their blossoms symbolizing beauty and intellectual pursuit. In his new home, he planted a solitary plum tree in the barren landscape of Dazaifu, where he was sent. Miraculously, it flourished, blossoming with delicate flowers that defied the harshness of his surroundings. This remarkable tree not only mirrored his enduring spirit but also became a beacon of hope for those who sought knowledge. Today, Dazaifu Tenmangu stands as a sacred site where students and scholars come to pay homage, believing that the essence of Michizane resides within the plum blossoms, inspiring them to overcome challenges in their own journeys of learning.
Fukuoka’s Local Charm
We also cannot miss Fukuoka’s famous cultural attractions, including the Fukuoka Castle ruins, the serene Ohori Park, and the bustling Tenjin shopping district. Ohori Park, located near Fukuoka Castle, offers enjoyable boat rides every year. There are various types of boats available, such as bike and swan pedal boats. For safety, there are height regulations for kids wishing to ride the bike boats. My daughter, due to her small height, was unable to ride for years. When she finally reached the required height, the bike boats were no longer in service, leaving her disappointed after waiting over four years.
Whenever we visit Fukuoka, we always make a point to stop by Jack Ohori, a renowned patisserie located near Ohori Park. Celebrated for its exquisite selection of pastries, cakes, and desserts, Jack Ohori beautifully blends traditional and contemporary flavors. The charming ambiance of the main location invites us to enjoy sweet treats while soaking in the park's scenic beauty, making it the perfect spot for relaxation. Additionally, with a smaller branch in the downtown area, we find it convenient to indulge in their delectable creations while exploring the city. Whether savoring delicate French pastries or seasonal fruit tarts, our visits to this beloved establishment are a cherished part of our Fukuoka experience.
While staying in the downtown area, we made a reservation at Ara Fish Restaurant, known for being popular with sumo wrestlers. We were seated in a private room surrounded by the handprints and signatures of famous sumo wrestlers—a surreal experience. The meal was served as a course, and we enjoyed chatting with the waitress, who wore a traditional kimono and shared stories about the wrestlers, including how she had been invited to their matches.
A Blossoming Paradise in Fukuoka
Early in the morning, we ventured to the islands in Fukuoka renowned for their stunning flower-covered landscapes: Kushima Island (九島) and Nokonoshima Island (能古島). Each island offers a unique charm, but Nokonoshima Island stands out as a particularly enchanting destination.
Nokonoshima Island is home to Nokonoshima Island Park, a famous flower park that attracts visitors year-round with its vibrant seasonal blooms. As we wandered through the park, we were treated to a breathtaking display of colorful flowers, including cosmos, sunflowers, and cherry blossoms. The beauty of these flowers varies with the seasons, ensuring that each visit offers something new and captivating.
In spring, the cherry blossoms paint the landscape in soft pink hues, creating a magical atmosphere. In summer, the sunflowers rise proudly, their golden faces following the sun across the sky. And in autumn, the cosmos blanket the fields in a riot of colors, inviting flower enthusiasts and photographers alike to capture the breathtaking scenes.
The park is not only a feast for the eyes but also a haven for relaxation. Families and couples often come here for picnics, while artists find inspiration amid the floral beauty. The combination of the stunning views and the tranquility of the island makes Nokonoshima a perfect escape from the bustling city.
Visitors can also explore other attractions on the island, including scenic walking trails, quaint cafes serving local delicacies, and opportunities for outdoor activities. The sense of community is palpable, as many locals take pride in cultivating the island's natural beauty.
Coastal Charm and Thoughtful Gestures
On our most recent trip, we stayed at the New Otani Hotel, which offered convenient, traditional Western-style service and an exceptional breakfast spread. We also enjoyed grilled fish, featuring many local varieties that are hard to find in Osaka or Tokyo. Later, we moved to the Marinoa Resort, but my daughter accidentally left her macarons in the refrigerator at the previous hotel. These macarons were from a famous patisserie we always visit when in Fukuoka. When we called the hotel, they kindly delivered the forgotten macarons to our new location. This simple act of kindness added to the charm of our Fukuoka adventures.
From the Marinoa Resort, we made a memorable visit to Itoshima, a beautiful coastal area known for its natural charm and artisan community. Many people from Tokyo, seeking a slower, nature-centric life, have settled here, opening small craft shops that line the area. Along the scenic shoreline, numerous beaches and pop-up stores create a laid-back, artistic atmosphere.
One highlight of our visit was stopping by a famous salt farm, where we tried onigiri (rice balls) seasoned with freshly harvested salt. The simplicity of the dish truly brought out the natural flavors, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
We also passed by Kotoishi Beach in Fukuoka, famous for its unique singing sands. However, due to accumulated garbage, the beach had stopped making its signature sounds. Thanks to the efforts of the local community, who worked hard to clean and restore it, the beach eventually regained its natural sound, once again filling the air with its soothing melodies.
Later that evening, we dined at the resort, savoring a French cuisine experience while watching a breathtaking sunset. The next morning, breakfast was served on our room’s balcony, overlooking the constant flow of ships departing from the nearby boat dock, particularly around the yacht dock area. These ships head toward small islands known for their fields of seasonal flowers like cosmos and rapeseed. Although we didn’t visit the islands this time, watching the marina's activity added a peaceful yet lively ambiance to our stay.
A Memorable Stay in Fukuoka
One of the things I treasure most about Fukuoka is its food, which is consistently fresh and delicious. Whether it’s vegetables, fish, seafood, or meat, the ingredients are always of exceptional quality. After experiencing such freshness, dining in Tokyo never feels quite the same. This trip, I felt compelled to start with food because of how much we enjoyed the local ingredients.
Fukuoka is a dynamic city that beautifully balances its rich history with modern attractions, making it a compelling destination for visitors and a vibrant home for residents. Whether exploring its historic sites, savoring its culinary offerings, or experiencing its lively festivals, Fukuoka offers something for everyone.
Each place we visited holds cherished memories, and while there are countless stories I want to share, I would like to leave some for others to explore and create their own unforgettable moments.
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